I boarded a Eurostar early Saturday morning and was glad I'd worn my overcoat. It's a single breasted Sealup in navy blue Lora Piana waterproof wool with a belt.I think it is called the Academy and I suppose it's got a certain 1930s student at Oxford look. It reminds me of the coats in the film Rebecca. I don't know if the Contender would approve but I wore brown fine wale corduroy trousers, a blue blazer from the merchant fox and an old tie from Hermes and brown suede Heschung boots. And obviously I carried a duffel bag ( a Tom Beckbe which isn't made any more). I didn't see any chaps in overcoats but the very dangerous looking tall blonde with whom I shared a taxi was wearing a long camel overcoat. So there you have it. Wear an overcoat.
Spot on, as usual. A few years ago I bought a Mackintosh and instantly had buyer's regret, thinking I'd bought an expensive rubber jacket that didn't breathe. I was wrong. When it's cold and pouring rain nothing stops the weather like a Mackintosh. I also have a Loden coat. I take it to Paris every winter and it's perfect. It's wonderfully warm, crisp, goes with everything, and even stops rain. And I have had an overcoat made, in rusty brown Harris Tweed so robust it might even stop a bullet.
In the autumn 2009 edition of Finch's Quarterly Review there is a bit about Captain Robbin's life being saved in the Second World War by his tweed jacket which stopped a series of bullets from the opposing man's Luger.
David, what’s your take on how an overcoat should fit? Should it be bulky enough to still feel loose while wearing another jacket underneath? How about where the end of the sleeves land? I’m sure it comes down to what’s comfortable, but I have a hard time trying on big coats without feeling like a shrunken version of myself. Thanks.
Hi Sean, I think it has to do with whether you're wearing it over a suit or not. If you are then it should be looser. Some coats are more tailored and maybe you prefer that, which is completely fine. But a Raglan coat is designed to be a little roomier. It looks more natural than you might think at first.
While I’m definitely in the “ready for overcoat weather” camp, publishing this on a late October day that threatens to break 80 degrees in NYC feels like a tease!
Hi David, what was your most worn overcoat last winter? Do you think this coming winter will be the same or is there something else you are looking forward to wearing?
I boarded a Eurostar early Saturday morning and was glad I'd worn my overcoat. It's a single breasted Sealup in navy blue Lora Piana waterproof wool with a belt.I think it is called the Academy and I suppose it's got a certain 1930s student at Oxford look. It reminds me of the coats in the film Rebecca. I don't know if the Contender would approve but I wore brown fine wale corduroy trousers, a blue blazer from the merchant fox and an old tie from Hermes and brown suede Heschung boots. And obviously I carried a duffel bag ( a Tom Beckbe which isn't made any more). I didn't see any chaps in overcoats but the very dangerous looking tall blonde with whom I shared a taxi was wearing a long camel overcoat. So there you have it. Wear an overcoat.
I purchased the Donegal Overcoat from Private White last year, it is not too heavy and looks great.
I took the plunge two years ago on a double breasted glen plaid number from Billy Reid. Brings me joy every time I pull it on.
Spot on, as usual. A few years ago I bought a Mackintosh and instantly had buyer's regret, thinking I'd bought an expensive rubber jacket that didn't breathe. I was wrong. When it's cold and pouring rain nothing stops the weather like a Mackintosh. I also have a Loden coat. I take it to Paris every winter and it's perfect. It's wonderfully warm, crisp, goes with everything, and even stops rain. And I have had an overcoat made, in rusty brown Harris Tweed so robust it might even stop a bullet.
In the autumn 2009 edition of Finch's Quarterly Review there is a bit about Captain Robbin's life being saved in the Second World War by his tweed jacket which stopped a series of bullets from the opposing man's Luger.
David, what’s your take on how an overcoat should fit? Should it be bulky enough to still feel loose while wearing another jacket underneath? How about where the end of the sleeves land? I’m sure it comes down to what’s comfortable, but I have a hard time trying on big coats without feeling like a shrunken version of myself. Thanks.
Hi Sean, I think it has to do with whether you're wearing it over a suit or not. If you are then it should be looser. Some coats are more tailored and maybe you prefer that, which is completely fine. But a Raglan coat is designed to be a little roomier. It looks more natural than you might think at first.
While I’m definitely in the “ready for overcoat weather” camp, publishing this on a late October day that threatens to break 80 degrees in NYC feels like a tease!
If you wait until it's cold then sometimes it's too late!
What is the ideal length for an overcoat?
I’ve not made the plunge, but I want to. Permanent Style is another brand of overcoats that I have my eye on.
Hi David, what was your most worn overcoat last winter? Do you think this coming winter will be the same or is there something else you are looking forward to wearing?
I’ll still wear the Kiton coat I mentioned in the piece.