Now that sounds like an entire newsletter, Jon. But for trout, the flies I fish the most are: 1/ Parachute Adams 2/ Stimulator 3/ PMX 4/ Blue Winged Olive 5/ Royal Wulff. I like flies that sit up in the water and that I can see. And Parachute Adams does what I need it to do most of the time (where I fish).
Hi David. Would you consider menswear a hobby or interest if someone asked you what your hobbies are? When someone asks me, I'm hesitant to list it because it sounds silly, it's just clothes after all. But many of us here spend a lot of time ( and money), research and explore clothes in a way that hopefully goes deeper than just pure consumption.
Hi Nick, let's call it an interest. And a perfectly worthwhile one. But it's also good to have some connection with an activity that takes us into the world at large. And I think clothing and tailoring is a good thing to care about and there's more--art, literature, travel, food--that we can, and should, enjoy too.
Hi David, thanks for doing these. I’m wondering about travel attire, particularly for overnight flights or trains. I’ve got a slog of 7 airports and two overnight flights in the same two week trip coming up, so I’ll want to wear something on the plane I can repurpose on non-travel days. What do you recommend for long travel days/overnights? Thanks for the insights!
I am obsessed with clothes that don't wrinkle too much. I have some sport coats that travel better than others. They're a little sturdier and when they do wrinkle they still look fine. Similarly I look for Oxford cloth shirts and dressier chinos that work on planes and off. And Alden suede loafers. All work on flights and in the real world.
How about a really good bag, say a Filson briefcase. A Barbour jacket. A good edition of the John Cheever book of your choice. A student-rate subscription to the print version of the New York Times. And finally a Yale sweatshirt. Ha!
Hi David! Welcome suggestions for stylish footwear while commuting/running errands in the city during rainy weather (that aren’t hunter, duck boots, etc.)- thanks!
This is an enduring issue. Depending on time of year: Chelsea Boots (Blundstone's would work), boat shoes (like a Rancourt or Sperry), Desert Boots (if it's not too rainy).
Hey David. Long time reader. First time questioner. Anyhoo, I am not a loafer person. As a skateboarder from the 80s, are slip on vans okay or should I turn in my Contender card?
I think Vans are perfectly alright. Absolutely. Unless you're going to an event with any person of power who you're trying to impress who doesn't own a snowboarding company. Then you'll have to wear leather shoes like any other adult. But that's the exception!
Well it's definitely not entirely performance-based. I mean it's a Volvo not a German car. I grew up driving Saabs. When my family had big dogs (Bernese Mountain Dogs) then we got Volvo wagons. I was anti-wagon for my personal needs until I turned 40. Then I just started liking all wagons. But particularly pre-2017 Volvo wagons. I like older BMW wagons that you see more in Europe (the market here is more dedicated to SUVs). I don't like most new cars. They're designed for the teenage part of men not the adult side of men. And I like to drive a car rather than an SUV. But if I graduated I'd probably get an XC90, which I really like, but it's really big.
Hi David. Not sure this is the right place for this but here it goes. I need some relationship advise. We seem to be polar opposites on most subjects, I just got C&J Khaki Suede chukka’s for spring-fall but she says it’s a winter boot. Her tastes are also a lot more expensive than mine. I’m trying to find a few striped OCBDs and she shows me a shirt from Zenga. It’s great, but fuck me… I’m 28 and trying to build a closet. I don’t have $800 for one shirt! Honestly, she really is great, just not sure I’m what she is looking for. At what point do I say, it’s not you, it’s me and just move on? I’m in NE Ohio so my options are fairly limited. I’m afraid I’m only holding on because I don’t want to be left with only myself and the internet to work with.
But truly, how long do you think it should take to get in a grove with a store / tailor before moving on?
Let's see here...the simple part first: You can tell her there's a great tradition about wearing suede in spring and fall (and even year round!). The Duke of Windsor settled that about 80 years ago. Then I think you should be honest about your budget and what you're looking for in clothes. It's better to be straightforward and explain your priorities and what makes sense for your personality. She should respect that. And while it's worth knowing the clothes she responds to you have to make these decisions for yourself (especially if you care about clothes), it's too personal to leave it to another person.
Hi David. Where can you recommend for buying a thick tweed sports coat (preferably with leather elbow patches)? Vintage ones never fit me (I'm 6' 2") and modern ones are always made of much thinner material. I love the heft of the older coats. Thanks!
Hmmm. Well I think you need an older coat but made by a proper tailor. I would look on eBay. And I would look for old Polo coats (back when they were made in USA). And if you don't like the way they fit then bring an old one to a tailor to have them alter it.
You've fully converted me to the knit tie for everything but a full formal suit. BUT, I'm quite tall and find that I'm trying all knit ties with pretty much 3-4" of tail, which is unruly at best.
Who (if anyone) makes a knit tie in a longer length??
I don't think they have to be the exact same length as a normal tie. If they are close enough that's fine. Part of the appeal is that it's a "roughly correct" version of a tie and that's good enough!
Hi David! Loved the Japanese rally piece! Pretty specific question here. When wearing a sport coat with chinos, do you like having your chinos creased or flat? Seems to me that flat chinos work better with more casual jackets, but maybe I'm being too rigid...
Well if I'm wearing chinos with a sport coat then I'm going pretty casual anyway. So they don't have creases. If it's a more formal situation then I'd graduate from chinos to proper trousers. Basically--I'm not really into creased chinos. It's neither one thing nor another.
Probably not. I know this is a big issue for Bill Simmons. But he's right in that OKC wouldn't count Seattle's championship as theirs. So I'm going with him on this one.
I know bespoke lodging is worth the effort to find it, but do you have any recommended hotel chains that you lean towards whenever that's the only option?
Well I don't know about "chains" exactly. Is Peninsula a chain? I generally avoid chains, unless I'm on a road trip in a depressing area and get in at midnight and am heading out at 6am and then maybe a Holiday Inn Express. But Michael makes fun of me for that on the podcast.
When making adjustments to your style or wardrobe, are you a fan of slowly adding/removing articles from your closet over time, or do you recommend a large shift and spending splurge in a short amount of time?
I've recently found myself landing in the latter category due to my frustration of constantly feeling like I don't have what I want or need when the event/dinner/party rolls around.
Let's see here, Travis. I think there are a few things. When you realize you need to invest in something, like a tuxedo or a serious suit (and everything that goes along with each: shirt, tie, shoes, etc.), then you can be ambitious. And when you divest, which you can do a few times a year, then you can be aggressive too. But otherwise I think dressing, especially after a certain age (say, forty or so), should probably be incremental. But you definitely want to be prepared for big events and if you don't feel you are then it's time to invest in what you need.
Hello David! Any thoughts on the book “Fly Fishing: Memories of Angling Days” by J.R. Hartley? Came across this the other day and feels very similar to Blood Knots in a way. Forgive me if you’ve given thoughts on it before, but I haven’t seen anything from you about this book. We appreciate your time!
Well in the heat I wear a Panama hat with a pretty big brim and don't mind if it gets destroyed. In winter I wear a Wellema hat. And did a project with them, they're the best.
I just had a terrific fishing hat (Fedora/western mashup) made by a terrific young new hat maker in Nashville named Joseph Martin of Joseph Martin Hats. He used to be an investment banker and now makes hats: go figure!
OK, you've got ten (10) and only ten flies to fish for the rest of your life.
What are they and why?
Now that sounds like an entire newsletter, Jon. But for trout, the flies I fish the most are: 1/ Parachute Adams 2/ Stimulator 3/ PMX 4/ Blue Winged Olive 5/ Royal Wulff. I like flies that sit up in the water and that I can see. And Parachute Adams does what I need it to do most of the time (where I fish).
Indeed, it could be. Thank you for sharing!
The Chubby rules the world out here in the West. I fish them in all sizes and prefer the pink or "royal" versions. Doug Biederbeck
I love the Chubby. Just didn’t want to get into that here. Ha!
Hi David. Would you consider menswear a hobby or interest if someone asked you what your hobbies are? When someone asks me, I'm hesitant to list it because it sounds silly, it's just clothes after all. But many of us here spend a lot of time ( and money), research and explore clothes in a way that hopefully goes deeper than just pure consumption.
Hi Nick, let's call it an interest. And a perfectly worthwhile one. But it's also good to have some connection with an activity that takes us into the world at large. And I think clothing and tailoring is a good thing to care about and there's more--art, literature, travel, food--that we can, and should, enjoy too.
Hi David, thanks for doing these. I’m wondering about travel attire, particularly for overnight flights or trains. I’ve got a slog of 7 airports and two overnight flights in the same two week trip coming up, so I’ll want to wear something on the plane I can repurpose on non-travel days. What do you recommend for long travel days/overnights? Thanks for the insights!
I am obsessed with clothes that don't wrinkle too much. I have some sport coats that travel better than others. They're a little sturdier and when they do wrinkle they still look fine. Similarly I look for Oxford cloth shirts and dressier chinos that work on planes and off. And Alden suede loafers. All work on flights and in the real world.
Thank you!
Top (5) items for my Freshman son heading to attend Harvard College this fall (student/athlete). Thx.
How about a really good bag, say a Filson briefcase. A Barbour jacket. A good edition of the John Cheever book of your choice. A student-rate subscription to the print version of the New York Times. And finally a Yale sweatshirt. Ha!
Hi David! Welcome suggestions for stylish footwear while commuting/running errands in the city during rainy weather (that aren’t hunter, duck boots, etc.)- thanks!
This is an enduring issue. Depending on time of year: Chelsea Boots (Blundstone's would work), boat shoes (like a Rancourt or Sperry), Desert Boots (if it's not too rainy).
Hey David. Long time reader. First time questioner. Anyhoo, I am not a loafer person. As a skateboarder from the 80s, are slip on vans okay or should I turn in my Contender card?
I think Vans are perfectly alright. Absolutely. Unless you're going to an event with any person of power who you're trying to impress who doesn't own a snowboarding company. Then you'll have to wear leather shoes like any other adult. But that's the exception!
Considering I work in the brewing industry I am fine not being an adult and all the people I need to impress wear sketchers.
Maybe desert boots could be added to the rotation at some point.
Why the Volvo wagon? Is this an aesthetic choice or performance based?
Well it's definitely not entirely performance-based. I mean it's a Volvo not a German car. I grew up driving Saabs. When my family had big dogs (Bernese Mountain Dogs) then we got Volvo wagons. I was anti-wagon for my personal needs until I turned 40. Then I just started liking all wagons. But particularly pre-2017 Volvo wagons. I like older BMW wagons that you see more in Europe (the market here is more dedicated to SUVs). I don't like most new cars. They're designed for the teenage part of men not the adult side of men. And I like to drive a car rather than an SUV. But if I graduated I'd probably get an XC90, which I really like, but it's really big.
Have you heard any rumors of a US Saab 900 relaunch? I
Hi David. Not sure this is the right place for this but here it goes. I need some relationship advise. We seem to be polar opposites on most subjects, I just got C&J Khaki Suede chukka’s for spring-fall but she says it’s a winter boot. Her tastes are also a lot more expensive than mine. I’m trying to find a few striped OCBDs and she shows me a shirt from Zenga. It’s great, but fuck me… I’m 28 and trying to build a closet. I don’t have $800 for one shirt! Honestly, she really is great, just not sure I’m what she is looking for. At what point do I say, it’s not you, it’s me and just move on? I’m in NE Ohio so my options are fairly limited. I’m afraid I’m only holding on because I don’t want to be left with only myself and the internet to work with.
But truly, how long do you think it should take to get in a grove with a store / tailor before moving on?
Let's see here...the simple part first: You can tell her there's a great tradition about wearing suede in spring and fall (and even year round!). The Duke of Windsor settled that about 80 years ago. Then I think you should be honest about your budget and what you're looking for in clothes. It's better to be straightforward and explain your priorities and what makes sense for your personality. She should respect that. And while it's worth knowing the clothes she responds to you have to make these decisions for yourself (especially if you care about clothes), it's too personal to leave it to another person.
Hi David. Where can you recommend for buying a thick tweed sports coat (preferably with leather elbow patches)? Vintage ones never fit me (I'm 6' 2") and modern ones are always made of much thinner material. I love the heft of the older coats. Thanks!
Hmmm. Well I think you need an older coat but made by a proper tailor. I would look on eBay. And I would look for old Polo coats (back when they were made in USA). And if you don't like the way they fit then bring an old one to a tailor to have them alter it.
You've fully converted me to the knit tie for everything but a full formal suit. BUT, I'm quite tall and find that I'm trying all knit ties with pretty much 3-4" of tail, which is unruly at best.
Who (if anyone) makes a knit tie in a longer length??
I don't think they have to be the exact same length as a normal tie. If they are close enough that's fine. Part of the appeal is that it's a "roughly correct" version of a tie and that's good enough!
Sam Hober makes incredible ties and you can specify length and width.
Hi David! Loved the Japanese rally piece! Pretty specific question here. When wearing a sport coat with chinos, do you like having your chinos creased or flat? Seems to me that flat chinos work better with more casual jackets, but maybe I'm being too rigid...
Well if I'm wearing chinos with a sport coat then I'm going pretty casual anyway. So they don't have creases. If it's a more formal situation then I'd graduate from chinos to proper trousers. Basically--I'm not really into creased chinos. It's neither one thing nor another.
Thanks, as always!
Hi David,
Should the Los Angeles Lakers be allowed to count the Minneapolis Lakers championships in their championship total?
Probably not. I know this is a big issue for Bill Simmons. But he's right in that OKC wouldn't count Seattle's championship as theirs. So I'm going with him on this one.
I know bespoke lodging is worth the effort to find it, but do you have any recommended hotel chains that you lean towards whenever that's the only option?
Well I don't know about "chains" exactly. Is Peninsula a chain? I generally avoid chains, unless I'm on a road trip in a depressing area and get in at midnight and am heading out at 6am and then maybe a Holiday Inn Express. But Michael makes fun of me for that on the podcast.
Hello David,
When making adjustments to your style or wardrobe, are you a fan of slowly adding/removing articles from your closet over time, or do you recommend a large shift and spending splurge in a short amount of time?
I've recently found myself landing in the latter category due to my frustration of constantly feeling like I don't have what I want or need when the event/dinner/party rolls around.
Let's see here, Travis. I think there are a few things. When you realize you need to invest in something, like a tuxedo or a serious suit (and everything that goes along with each: shirt, tie, shoes, etc.), then you can be ambitious. And when you divest, which you can do a few times a year, then you can be aggressive too. But otherwise I think dressing, especially after a certain age (say, forty or so), should probably be incremental. But you definitely want to be prepared for big events and if you don't feel you are then it's time to invest in what you need.
Hello David! Any thoughts on the book “Fly Fishing: Memories of Angling Days” by J.R. Hartley? Came across this the other day and feels very similar to Blood Knots in a way. Forgive me if you’ve given thoughts on it before, but I haven’t seen anything from you about this book. We appreciate your time!
That's on my list of favorite fishing books. Blood Knots is much less sentimental (and happens to be true), while Hartley is all made up. But I love both for they what they do. And have happily re-read both. https://www.wsj.com/arts-culture/books/five-best-books-on-angling-e8a8edcd?gaa_at=eafs&gaa_n=ASWzDAh_4teyDDLPiBQk7sCInr2kQaomMSKiPcMD1pjAOsf0jkVtqqG2Eog5evKMz3U%3D&gaa_ts=685c023c&gaa_sig=sDyBVLSDRVcD_z4TD6skllgEkcHhTY7hU2zUZlEWs1Txw4GKAsJFfxgIqGvFS8yrJuFLpeqLkLuMHP1dX81bbQ%3D%3D
Wasn’t aware it was made up - that’s good to know. Appreciate the link!
But once you know then it all does seem a little too perfect. But that’s all right!
The book is famous in the UK from a 1980s TV ad for the Yellow Pages. It’ll be on YouTube. Highly memorable, even as a child.
Good to know, thanks! I’ll be reading it soon
Hi David, thanks for doing these. What are your recommendations for summer and winter hats? Houston humid subtropical climate.
Well in the heat I wear a Panama hat with a pretty big brim and don't mind if it gets destroyed. In winter I wear a Wellema hat. And did a project with them, they're the best.
I just looked up Wellema. Completely destroyed in a fire. Terrible.
Yes, it’s very sad. Waiting for Cody’s next chapter.
I just had a terrific fishing hat (Fedora/western mashup) made by a terrific young new hat maker in Nashville named Joseph Martin of Joseph Martin Hats. He used to be an investment banker and now makes hats: go figure!
Doug Biederbeck
Quaker Marine’s Standard Sailing Hat in white or a Stetson Open Road Straw for summer. Especially in Houston.
I love the look of the Open Road Straw. I’m trying to imagine it with shorts? Don’t tell Coggins I wear shorts this close to buildings with elevators.
I have an open road in beaver. Love it