I’m planning to answer your questions—about style, travel, fly fishing and other urgent matters of the day. So please leave them in the comments and I’ll try to answer them each week. If you’re too shy then send me a message. Thanks!
Good question, Matt. I'll write about this at length. Since it's an important and good question. Short answer: save up and start with a good sport coat.
The easiest measure would be if it's a shoe and it slips on you don't need a sock. Loafers are perfect. Moccasins, boat shoes, anything like that. A buck also doesn't need them. If it's a real dress shoe, a proper English shoe from Crockett & Jones, put on some socks.
Only area I'd pause would be smarter, lined loafers. Great example - C&J's Cavendish; a loafer and a proper English shoe, maybe in suede sans sock, otherwise for me it's an overstep.
PS. Great piece by you on suede shoes. I was really surprised though, I'd always seen suede as a summer shoe so was interested you see them around the other way. I guess that just backs up your article that they're for the year round.
That's a REAL loafer, so yes, I hear you. But I think it depends on how you do it. Suede is certainly a fall or winter material in my mind. A suede coat, for instance, and suede shoes are often paired with flannel or corduroy, which are also wintery to me. But white bucks are white bucks so that's as summer as it gets. Something for all of us to think about.
How do you actually listen to music at this point: Car, Homepod, iPhone (with or without earbuds/headphones), or a more audiophile way? Just curious. It seems as technology has advanced, somehow the sheer joy of music seeking and listening has been limited. I think it has to do with the advent of the podcast, which takes up so much audio time space now.
This is interesting. I listen to a lot of music because that's what I need when I write. I use a B&O speaker and play Spotify for it. I was a late arriver to Spotify and love it. For me it's great. Their playlists are fantastic and they have a lot of modern composers and low key electronic music (my sister says it's "depressing Japanese spa" genre) that I like when I'm working. I just sold/gave away all my CDs which was an absurd experience. I definitely interact differently with music now. Just want it to be good. Don't need to know as much about it. Part of getting older, I guess.
I was hoping you could walk us through a typical writing session for your work. You touched briefly on the music below, but I am very curious about the where and hows (materials, at home or in the field, writing implements of choice, etc...). Thank you-
Thoughts on moderation? I love the idea of a well worn/well loved closet but also find myself searching for “the next thing” all the time. Periodically I find myself with a closet full of stuff I wear 4 or 5 times a year. I love your Belgian articles but have to tell myself I don’t need yet another pair of loafers (or do I?) when I can’t wear the ones I own enough. Besides improved self control...any comments? Thanks again
Well I think it’s good to have something you wear a lot. Even if you end up wearing it out. Over the years you’ll have a better sense of what will really be useful. I think the danger of excitement of something new is that it’s about the rush of acquisition. That fades. Then you’re left with a closet full of things. I try to aim pretty carefully at a category and then if I find, let’s say an overcoat, when I’m traveling then I can act. It takes discipline!
What are your thoughts on those Orvis fly fishing classes? My father, grandfather, and great-grandfather were all passionate about the sport but all passed before the tradition was passed down to me. I've been looking for some instruction but not sure where to start.
I think they're great! It's a good thing to do with a friend, family member or partner. I would do the class and then try to book a guide for the following day. Then you can try what you learned and really get into it. Good luck!
What are your thoughts on the 'costume' of modern fly fishing -- particularly the salt? It's hard to balance sun protection and fit while not succumbing to the 'pro bro' look.
I have given this a fair amount of thought. I wear stretch J Crew chinos that dry really fast. Slip on Sperrys if we're not wading and some ancient wading boots if we're in the water. Lightest weight button up shirt I can find (that keeps the sun out), rip stop safari jacket to and from the boat. Quaker marine hat. It's alright!
Good question. I think every person has to have their own indulgence. My feeling is if they advertise in a magazine then I don't have as close a connection to them. So I'm more likely to invest a suit from a small tailor, a pair of Belgians or a fishing rod. But everything you mentioned is great. I think if you have something like that then keep it as long as you can. An old Omega is incredible. I had Tiffany calling cards for years. And Gucci loafers are terrific--also worn in a lot. You don't want to get too precious about it.
What are your thoughts on beating the summer heat while remaining classically stylish? I live in a state where the humidity can make looking and feeling great a challenge. The battle between practicality, sweat, and style is a constant battle until the relief of fall.
I don’t think gear is urgent. I would try to get a lesson from a guide and get on the water with him or her. They can usually lend you what you need. Then you’ll have a sense of what you like and what kind of fishing you’ll be doing. Ultimately it’s going to be: rod, reel, waders, boots. Then you can start going crazy!
Do you have any particular advice on how best to improve writing skills? (Aside from just doing it, I write a weekly paid article for the local paper but there is no editorial oversight)
Yikes big question. Read E.B. White’s essays, especially One Man’s Meat. Try to write a lot (as you suggested). And try to know other writers who are willing to discuss their work and your work. Then repeat!
Big question! If money is no issue than RRL officer chino ($220). But it is a golden age of good chinos. For less than $80 you can get very good ones from J Crew, Abercrombie & Fitch and I’m sure other places too. I also like the twill Sid Mashburn trouser (I forget the name). They are slightly more formal but also great.
I think the cravat is the hardest working accessory there is: it keeps you warm: it keeps you cool: you can wipe sweat from the brow with it: you can clean your glasses with it.
Wow. Congratulations! I think it’s good to have a nice suit that you can wear to every event you have. It’s both celebratory and also you don’t have to think too much. Since you’ll have a lot on your mind anyway!
I don’t know actually. That’s a good thing to explore here. Maybe another reader can suggest. There was a really smart guide on the Tom Rosenbauer Orvis podcast about a year ago who I would love to fish with. The show was about the Delaware. I’ll look him up. And I’m going to do a story on guides. And will try to include him.
Orvis on Fifth Avenue. Urban Angler (further down Fifth Ave). If you make it up to Livingston Manor then I would go to the new Dette's, which is an amazing place with a lot of history. All their flies are tied by people in the Catskills. They're great.
Strong endorse. I bought a midnight blue tuxedo there that I really like. And one of my favorite sport coats (I brown/light brown houndstooth) is from Sid. I haven't gotten into the deep end (their $4k suits) but I have total faith in them.
I agree -- have not regretted a purchase with them yet. Construction seems to be superb and fabrics are top shelf. Hard to argue with it as an off-the-rack option.
Well this is a pretty filthy question for the hardcore people out there. I used buy Loomis GL3 (which was their old mid-range line, below the fancier GL2). I really believe in those. I did some work with Orvis and got a Helios 3. 9' 5 wt and 9' 8wt. They are both incredible. Those are pretty pricey and the look takes some getting used to. But they are incredible. I have a TFO 9wt. which is a club and a good budget rod. I got an Asquith as a gift and that is insane. I think I'll leave it at that, for the moment before this gets out of hand. Ha!
But there are a lot of camp shirts out now (Drake’s has a good one, I saw a nice Todd Snyder one) that are less bold and easier to wear in more settings.
How do you balance your need/desire to dress well( nothing crazy of course) and feel good while also having to “defend” your approach to friends who don’t pay any attention to what they wear?
That's a big one. That balance is what being an adult is all about. I think it's good to care about something, it's even good to absorb a little fun from your friends, and then it's good to persevere if it really matters to you. Obsessions are good!
What is your take on black shoes, specifically a loafer like an Alden tassel or a horse bit? Never wear them/only with a suit or tie at the least/ could work for casual with chinos?
I personally do not wear black shoes. Why wear black shoes when I can wear brown ones, which are superior in every way? Having said that some very avant-garde Italian men I know are starting to wear black shoes AND black socks. It’s a statement. If you could get away with it you probably wouldn’t be asking. For the rest of us let’s wear brown shoes unless we’re going to a funeral.
I’m only half English so I don’t think those rules apply. I have worn black Alden tassels with olive chinos and I’ll admit it just didn’t feel natural. I do think they work with grey or navy trousers.
Hmm. A good linen sportcoat or suit. A pair of loafers or easygoing dress shoes that you like. Some sort of seasonal shirt--linen, patterned, seersucker, madras. You want to look like you are enjoying the season and embrace the elements. An old, fraying Panama hat also helps. Good luck!
Conscientious drinking: If your go to drink is a bit more obscure, such as a boulevardier, is it best to give the bartender a chance, order it as a Negroni with bourbon vice gin, or stop being pretentious and order some simple while out?
It depends on the type of place. If it's a low-key bar then keep it simple. If it's a place where they're proud of their cocktail skills then they'll be happy to make it. But I like to start gently and ease into it.
Thank you! I generally try to keep my advice to things that I think are good and work for most men. I don't like sharing all the sordid details of everything I'm wearing. But if you see something specific and want to know what it is I'm happy to tell you.
This one may strike you as out of left field, but how do you maintain a constant physical size/weight that works for tailored clothing, especially these days? I find myself inching upwards a tiny bit in the waist/chest/back and I'm beginning to wonder about intermittent fasting as a good option to limit weight gain (besides exercising more). lol
I am the last person to speak on this. I've had some clothes let out. Usually I try to give up drinking for a month. But that month is February. And who knows what will happen by then .
I want to take my first leap into 1. A pair of Belgian Shoes and 2. Pants that aren’t denim. Do you have a favorite color/style of Belgians and any recommendations for non-denim pants? Versatility is my goal. Thank you David.
Dark brown Belgians for sure. And dark grey flannel or summer weight wool for the trousers. Wear them together! If you are in NY Jake Mueser made me my favorite pair of lightweight trousers. Drake’s or Ralph Lauren also make grey trousers every season. Good luck!
I would really like to know if those Chinese Belgian shoes were alright. Seems like a no-brainer if they wore in okay and didn't fall apart in no time. :)
I just accidentally sheared off my entire beard (who knew a 2 setting was so drastic?). In normal times I firmly believe in getting a beard trimmed by a professional. Since these are not those I take an electric and whack it down every month or so.
You’re getting to the fun part! This is a big question I should deal with in a post. I wrote something on the Campania jacket that Jake Mueser makes. That’s the model I like. The fabric depends. This is a great topic!
My favorite shirts are Drake's oxford cloth shirts. Some are lighter weight than others. But that is my go to. If you want something poplin then you could also go to the Budd website and get into their Bengal stripe dress shirts. Michael Williams (of A Continuous Lean) is a big proponent of Kamakura, which is cheaper. I've never sorted out their sizing, but they are highly recommended. Good luck!
In a perfect world you would have clothed made by a tailor that made sense for your figure and that you felt comfortable in. I think it’s hard when designers make things for a very narrow section of the public. If you find something you like stick with it and be yourself. Good luck!
The one thing quarantine has me thinking about, strangely, is black tie so I’m working on assembling a tux. When it comes to studs in particular - and I know this is really in the weeds - but onyx or pearl? And white metal or yellow metal?
Wow, that is very specific. I understand the feeling of having black tie on the mind. It feels so...exotic. I can't really answer that question. I'd have to see everything combined. Generally I think accessories in black tie should be reassuring. Unless you're going down the velvet dinner jacket path, in which case you have more leeway.
Hello! I’m in the market for white (or off-white) jeans. However, I like the cut to be a bit tapered because I think it looks better with loafers, which I wear nearly exclusively all summer. Problem I find is that the tapered cuts tend to also be “skinny jeans” and do not look flattering on an already skinny person. Is tailoring my answer? I know I’m probably overthinking/obsessing about this - so please slap some sense into me.
Yikes! It’s good to overthink things. But you’re really in rarefied territory here. I know Sid Mashburn sells white Levi’s that they’ve tailored slightly. But that might be a good starting point. Good luck, Todd!
Completely depends on the number of people! You don’t want to mix a Manhattan every two minutes. I used to make egg nog (very strong in very small glasses) for a Christmas party. I think if it’s pre-made that’s ideal. But obviously that cuts out a lot of things. Also you don’t really want people drinking more than two martinis (you might think you do. But you don’t). Having said that freeze water in the bottom of 8 small glasses. Pour gin into it and then shave a lemon rind. That is a powerful martini and good for a small group of people you trust.
Hmm -- I didn't expect this answer especially with the nod to Sid Mashburn, which seems to really promote this look. Angloitalian is another that seems to believe tailored clothing and denim can coexist very nicely. I don't think it's as delicate as you suggest, if I may say, as you just need to have a well tailored sportcoat with some texture to the fabric and it'll sit pretty well with jeans provided they're tapered nicely and hemmed appropriately.
I hear you. It's more the jeans. Some people get...carried away. I don't want them to be a distraction. Having said that I know a lot of well dressed men who wear white jeans with tailored jackets and look great. I can't quite bring myself to do it But I like it.
FWIW I think you'd pull it off. I really think anyone can unless there's a formal presentation being made at work or something. It stands out for men, for sure, but then again a tailored jacket already does in most places anyway.
Sid Mashburn has a few good ideas here and there. I love those loose fitting double monk in suede that he was pushing a few months ago and bought some Grensons that I love. But he’s mostly a Mercedes SUV salesman in a very nice outfit. He’ll say about anything to get you to spend a boatload on something fancy to legitimize an income or image. Some of his stuff is really out there and the stores are full of pretentious goofs. I’d much rather go to Perlis and talk to Jay or that guy with the giant hair at J Press. Both really nice approachable guys. Both fun stores. Way cooler than Sid.
Well I might disagree with you there, Tad. I think the Sid store in Atlanta is one of the great men's stores in America. I've always found their staff to be terrific and stylish and they don't put the pressure on at all. But Sid offers options at many prices in nearly every category, from sport shirts to shoes to tailored clothing. Sid's a wonderful, well-loved man. I stopped him outside Freemans about ten years ago, he didn't know me, and we just started talking about my poor pitiful Vikings. I didn't realize it, but it was the beginning of a beautiful friendship. So a big fan here, and J. Press to for that matter, there's room for all great men's stores!
If J.Press is cooler than Sid Mashburn, then I’m Miles Davis. lol Are you serious? Sounds like you just aren’t the right guy for the product more than a critique of the product. A Mercedes is still a nice car, to use your comparison. There’s no doubt SM’s fabrics, cut, and construction are as good as it gets for the price points, and they’ve been on sale a lot recently, so it’s been even more approachable than usual. I’ve had them hem things for Elle sight unseen, just by providing measurements and they always nail it for me. I don’t know man, I think they’re about as good as it gets in the US. Even Simon Crompton thinks they’re a top US retailer for high end men’s clothing.
I'm not sure we're far apart. I don't doubt their products are of good or better quality, and I don't doubt sid is a nice guy in person. But the online persona is way over the top, and comes off as sales-y. It's off-putting to me. Trying to get me to wear sneakers with a suit is silly. As for the MB being a nice car, it's not what it once was. The company was once an engineering-led company that built cars like a bank vault. It's now a marketing-driven company and their marketing is really off-putting. The cars are obscenely flashy and the ads that keep telling us that they're "the best" repeatedly are annoying. I want the R107/R129 era back.
Are you excited about tailored clothing remaining a men's mainstay, even with what seems like a giant cultural shift toward egalitarianism and populism? Can tailored clothes eschew connotations of elitism or will they isolate the wearer to rebel or "failure to adapt" social status?
I’m writing a story about this for a magazine which I will share when it’s published. I think tailoring will always be part of our culture. It may signify power, it may signify a theatrical personality, but the suit has meaning even if that meaning shifts over time.
Some of these I’ll address at length in future newsletters. Some I can answer quickly here.
How do you create elegant style in your wardrobe on a budget?
Good question, Matt. I'll write about this at length. Since it's an important and good question. Short answer: save up and start with a good sport coat.
Curious ... any grooming products you routinely pick up while you're traveling?
Oh great question! I think I'll make a proper list with links and share that. Thank you!
Somewhere it's possible to draw a line on what shoes should sensibly be worn sockless. Maybe it's the sole?
Commando, dainite, quad leather - socks, otherwise - knock yourself out.
Maybe it's the construction, and a goodyear welt is the line?
Could be lining; unlined, ankles out.
Some thoughts and your time would be helpful; it could save not inconsiderable amounts of online ire. A public service if you will.
The easiest measure would be if it's a shoe and it slips on you don't need a sock. Loafers are perfect. Moccasins, boat shoes, anything like that. A buck also doesn't need them. If it's a real dress shoe, a proper English shoe from Crockett & Jones, put on some socks.
I certainly couldn't disagree.
Only area I'd pause would be smarter, lined loafers. Great example - C&J's Cavendish; a loafer and a proper English shoe, maybe in suede sans sock, otherwise for me it's an overstep.
PS. Great piece by you on suede shoes. I was really surprised though, I'd always seen suede as a summer shoe so was interested you see them around the other way. I guess that just backs up your article that they're for the year round.
That's a REAL loafer, so yes, I hear you. But I think it depends on how you do it. Suede is certainly a fall or winter material in my mind. A suede coat, for instance, and suede shoes are often paired with flannel or corduroy, which are also wintery to me. But white bucks are white bucks so that's as summer as it gets. Something for all of us to think about.
How do you actually listen to music at this point: Car, Homepod, iPhone (with or without earbuds/headphones), or a more audiophile way? Just curious. It seems as technology has advanced, somehow the sheer joy of music seeking and listening has been limited. I think it has to do with the advent of the podcast, which takes up so much audio time space now.
This is interesting. I listen to a lot of music because that's what I need when I write. I use a B&O speaker and play Spotify for it. I was a late arriver to Spotify and love it. For me it's great. Their playlists are fantastic and they have a lot of modern composers and low key electronic music (my sister says it's "depressing Japanese spa" genre) that I like when I'm working. I just sold/gave away all my CDs which was an absurd experience. I definitely interact differently with music now. Just want it to be good. Don't need to know as much about it. Part of getting older, I guess.
"Look into your heart!" (No question, just pleased to see the Miller's Crossing photo)
I was hoping you could walk us through a typical writing session for your work. You touched briefly on the music below, but I am very curious about the where and hows (materials, at home or in the field, writing implements of choice, etc...). Thank you-
Thoughts on moderation? I love the idea of a well worn/well loved closet but also find myself searching for “the next thing” all the time. Periodically I find myself with a closet full of stuff I wear 4 or 5 times a year. I love your Belgian articles but have to tell myself I don’t need yet another pair of loafers (or do I?) when I can’t wear the ones I own enough. Besides improved self control...any comments? Thanks again
Well I think it’s good to have something you wear a lot. Even if you end up wearing it out. Over the years you’ll have a better sense of what will really be useful. I think the danger of excitement of something new is that it’s about the rush of acquisition. That fades. Then you’re left with a closet full of things. I try to aim pretty carefully at a category and then if I find, let’s say an overcoat, when I’m traveling then I can act. It takes discipline!
Discipline which I don’t always have!
What are your thoughts on those Orvis fly fishing classes? My father, grandfather, and great-grandfather were all passionate about the sport but all passed before the tradition was passed down to me. I've been looking for some instruction but not sure where to start.
I think they're great! It's a good thing to do with a friend, family member or partner. I would do the class and then try to book a guide for the following day. Then you can try what you learned and really get into it. Good luck!
What are your thoughts on the 'costume' of modern fly fishing -- particularly the salt? It's hard to balance sun protection and fit while not succumbing to the 'pro bro' look.
I have given this a fair amount of thought. I wear stretch J Crew chinos that dry really fast. Slip on Sperrys if we're not wading and some ancient wading boots if we're in the water. Lightest weight button up shirt I can find (that keeps the sun out), rip stop safari jacket to and from the boat. Quaker marine hat. It's alright!
My Rivay X Coggins Roscoe shirt covers most of my days in the U.P. of MI.
That makes me so happy!
Same here.
What luxury (indulgence) items do you consider "must haves"? I have a Louis Vuitton wallet, Gucci loafers, Omega watch. Tiffany? Rolex?
Good question. I think every person has to have their own indulgence. My feeling is if they advertise in a magazine then I don't have as close a connection to them. So I'm more likely to invest a suit from a small tailor, a pair of Belgians or a fishing rod. But everything you mentioned is great. I think if you have something like that then keep it as long as you can. An old Omega is incredible. I had Tiffany calling cards for years. And Gucci loafers are terrific--also worn in a lot. You don't want to get too precious about it.
What are your thoughts on beating the summer heat while remaining classically stylish? I live in a state where the humidity can make looking and feeling great a challenge. The battle between practicality, sweat, and style is a constant battle until the relief of fall.
You could also get a linen suit and just wear it every day. Will probably look better after a month of hard use.
No socks, loose fitting trousers, light Oxford shirt or Lacoste. Linen sport coat. Adjust to taste.
Any gear recommendations for fly fishing beginner?
I don’t think gear is urgent. I would try to get a lesson from a guide and get on the water with him or her. They can usually lend you what you need. Then you’ll have a sense of what you like and what kind of fishing you’ll be doing. Ultimately it’s going to be: rod, reel, waders, boots. Then you can start going crazy!
David,
Do you have any particular advice on how best to improve writing skills? (Aside from just doing it, I write a weekly paid article for the local paper but there is no editorial oversight)
Yikes big question. Read E.B. White’s essays, especially One Man’s Meat. Try to write a lot (as you suggested). And try to know other writers who are willing to discuss their work and your work. Then repeat!
Read any good books lately?
Yes! I’ll send out a reading list soon. But listening to “The Splendid and the Vile” and it’s great if you’re into England and WWII.
I’m reading that right currently. It’s a great summer read! Thanks.
who makes the best chinos in your opinion?
Big question! If money is no issue than RRL officer chino ($220). But it is a golden age of good chinos. For less than $80 you can get very good ones from J Crew, Abercrombie & Fitch and I’m sure other places too. I also like the twill Sid Mashburn trouser (I forget the name). They are slightly more formal but also great.
thank you!
I would add Bills Khakis. Love the M2 Officer Chino.
I think the cravat is the hardest working accessory there is: it keeps you warm: it keeps you cool: you can wipe sweat from the brow with it: you can clean your glasses with it.
Just got engaged! Any sartorial advice or otherwise to make the most out of engagement season?
Wow. Congratulations! I think it’s good to have a nice suit that you can wear to every event you have. It’s both celebratory and also you don’t have to think too much. Since you’ll have a lot on your mind anyway!
What is the perfect gin cocktail and which gin do you prefer (even if only available in limited quantities;))
Is this question from the proprietor if a small gin company?!
Ha! Maybe? Would being said gent that make it less of a valuable question?
It’s very valuable. Maybe a gin post is in order!
Any Catskills fly fishing guides you might recommend for a small group of beginner friends? Thank you!!
I don’t know actually. That’s a good thing to explore here. Maybe another reader can suggest. There was a really smart guide on the Tom Rosenbauer Orvis podcast about a year ago who I would love to fish with. The show was about the Delaware. I’ll look him up. And I’m going to do a story on guides. And will try to include him.
Thanks! Good tip on the Orvis podcast as well. 🙏
Preferred fishing outfitter/area around NY?
Orvis on Fifth Avenue. Urban Angler (further down Fifth Ave). If you make it up to Livingston Manor then I would go to the new Dette's, which is an amazing place with a lot of history. All their flies are tied by people in the Catskills. They're great.
Don’t fit get about Old Souls in Cold Spring NY.
Yes! I haven’t been but know their strong reputation.
If you're on Long Island: https://www.riverbayoutfitters.com/
How do you feel about Sid Mashburn tailored clothing?
Strong endorse. I bought a midnight blue tuxedo there that I really like. And one of my favorite sport coats (I brown/light brown houndstooth) is from Sid. I haven't gotten into the deep end (their $4k suits) but I have total faith in them.
I agree -- have not regretted a purchase with them yet. Construction seems to be superb and fabrics are top shelf. Hard to argue with it as an off-the-rack option.
What are your go to fly rod setups?
Well this is a pretty filthy question for the hardcore people out there. I used buy Loomis GL3 (which was their old mid-range line, below the fancier GL2). I really believe in those. I did some work with Orvis and got a Helios 3. 9' 5 wt and 9' 8wt. They are both incredible. Those are pretty pricey and the look takes some getting used to. But they are incredible. I have a TFO 9wt. which is a club and a good budget rod. I got an Asquith as a gift and that is insane. I think I'll leave it at that, for the moment before this gets out of hand. Ha!
Where is your favorite fly fishing destination in the U.S.?
Big, big, big question. Will be a story.
How many shoes should a man own?
At least as many bottles of wine in a case.
Hawaiian shirts, are they solely for beachy vacation?
I think you want to be near water or a place where a paper umbrella comes in your drink.
But there are a lot of camp shirts out now (Drake’s has a good one, I saw a nice Todd Snyder one) that are less bold and easier to wear in more settings.
Much more of an observation than a question--I see my work productivity plummeting in the most beautiful ways, via The Contender. Thank you, kind sir.
Thank you, Patrick!
How do you balance your need/desire to dress well( nothing crazy of course) and feel good while also having to “defend” your approach to friends who don’t pay any attention to what they wear?
That's a big one. That balance is what being an adult is all about. I think it's good to care about something, it's even good to absorb a little fun from your friends, and then it's good to persevere if it really matters to you. Obsessions are good!
What is your take on black shoes, specifically a loafer like an Alden tassel or a horse bit? Never wear them/only with a suit or tie at the least/ could work for casual with chinos?
I personally do not wear black shoes. Why wear black shoes when I can wear brown ones, which are superior in every way? Having said that some very avant-garde Italian men I know are starting to wear black shoes AND black socks. It’s a statement. If you could get away with it you probably wouldn’t be asking. For the rest of us let’s wear brown shoes unless we’re going to a funeral.
Different rules if you’re English!
I’m only half English so I don’t think those rules apply. I have worn black Alden tassels with olive chinos and I’ll admit it just didn’t feel natural. I do think they work with grey or navy trousers.
Everyday carry - pockets and bag
What do you think are summer essentials in your wardrobe?
Hmm. A good linen sportcoat or suit. A pair of loafers or easygoing dress shoes that you like. Some sort of seasonal shirt--linen, patterned, seersucker, madras. You want to look like you are enjoying the season and embrace the elements. An old, fraying Panama hat also helps. Good luck!
Conscientious drinking: If your go to drink is a bit more obscure, such as a boulevardier, is it best to give the bartender a chance, order it as a Negroni with bourbon vice gin, or stop being pretentious and order some simple while out?
It depends on the type of place. If it's a low-key bar then keep it simple. If it's a place where they're proud of their cocktail skills then they'll be happy to make it. But I like to start gently and ease into it.
Would you ever consider posting more about your outfits/wardrobe? You’re a big style inspiration and I would love to see more of your style!
Thank you! I generally try to keep my advice to things that I think are good and work for most men. I don't like sharing all the sordid details of everything I'm wearing. But if you see something specific and want to know what it is I'm happy to tell you.
This one may strike you as out of left field, but how do you maintain a constant physical size/weight that works for tailored clothing, especially these days? I find myself inching upwards a tiny bit in the waist/chest/back and I'm beginning to wonder about intermittent fasting as a good option to limit weight gain (besides exercising more). lol
I am the last person to speak on this. I've had some clothes let out. Usually I try to give up drinking for a month. But that month is February. And who knows what will happen by then .
lol another reason why higher end tailored clothing is good (they leave more fabric in the seams for letting out). They last.
Exactly. Let's just say I have to go to J. Mueser for....adjustments every now and then.
I want to take my first leap into 1. A pair of Belgian Shoes and 2. Pants that aren’t denim. Do you have a favorite color/style of Belgians and any recommendations for non-denim pants? Versatility is my goal. Thank you David.
Dark brown Belgians for sure. And dark grey flannel or summer weight wool for the trousers. Wear them together! If you are in NY Jake Mueser made me my favorite pair of lightweight trousers. Drake’s or Ralph Lauren also make grey trousers every season. Good luck!
Will there be a Belgian Diaries article on the Chinese/eBay Belgians?
Possibly 😂
I would really like to know if those Chinese Belgian shoes were alright. Seems like a no-brainer if they wore in okay and didn't fall apart in no time. :)
Any thoughts on proper beard care during this time of quarantine?
I just accidentally sheared off my entire beard (who knew a 2 setting was so drastic?). In normal times I firmly believe in getting a beard trimmed by a professional. Since these are not those I take an electric and whack it down every month or so.
What should be my other blazer once I have a navy blue one?
You’re getting to the fun part! This is a big question I should deal with in a post. I wrote something on the Campania jacket that Jake Mueser makes. That’s the model I like. The fabric depends. This is a great topic!
How does one dress elegantly for travel by flight. I see too many hoodies in the airport. Also, come swing by Bozeman, let's fly fish.
Hi David. I’m looking for a new source for dress shirts that are suitable for humid central Florida weather. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance.
My favorite shirts are Drake's oxford cloth shirts. Some are lighter weight than others. But that is my go to. If you want something poplin then you could also go to the Budd website and get into their Bengal stripe dress shirts. Michael Williams (of A Continuous Lean) is a big proponent of Kamakura, which is cheaper. I've never sorted out their sizing, but they are highly recommended. Good luck!
Are bracelets okay to wear? If so, what are the parameters. (Miller’s Crossing!)
Do you live in Marfa, Naples or Santa Fe? If not I would tread lightly.
Any style advice/encouragement for a guy on the hefty side? Can be demoralizing at times.
In a perfect world you would have clothed made by a tailor that made sense for your figure and that you felt comfortable in. I think it’s hard when designers make things for a very narrow section of the public. If you find something you like stick with it and be yourself. Good luck!
The one thing quarantine has me thinking about, strangely, is black tie so I’m working on assembling a tux. When it comes to studs in particular - and I know this is really in the weeds - but onyx or pearl? And white metal or yellow metal?
Wow, that is very specific. I understand the feeling of having black tie on the mind. It feels so...exotic. I can't really answer that question. I'd have to see everything combined. Generally I think accessories in black tie should be reassuring. Unless you're going down the velvet dinner jacket path, in which case you have more leeway.
Invisible socks or no socks? I am conflicted. The responsible man in me thinks invisible, the wanton man in me thinks none
It really depends on what you're more comfortable with. I don't wear socks and I'm prepared to live that reality.
Favorite Afghan Whigs album?
Was NOT expecting this to come up! Gentlemen, if I have to choose one. #2: Black Love #3: 1965.
This is the correct order.
Also totally acceptable: swapping 1965 and Black Love.
Hello! I’m in the market for white (or off-white) jeans. However, I like the cut to be a bit tapered because I think it looks better with loafers, which I wear nearly exclusively all summer. Problem I find is that the tapered cuts tend to also be “skinny jeans” and do not look flattering on an already skinny person. Is tailoring my answer? I know I’m probably overthinking/obsessing about this - so please slap some sense into me.
Yikes! It’s good to overthink things. But you’re really in rarefied territory here. I know Sid Mashburn sells white Levi’s that they’ve tailored slightly. But that might be a good starting point. Good luck, Todd!
Thank you!
Sid Mashburn also sells off white 501 Levi’s, and they will tailor for you. Best fitting jeans I’ve ever owned.
What are some of your go-to party cocktails. Cocktails or drinks for when you are having guests over? Does it differ based on the numbers?
Completely depends on the number of people! You don’t want to mix a Manhattan every two minutes. I used to make egg nog (very strong in very small glasses) for a Christmas party. I think if it’s pre-made that’s ideal. But obviously that cuts out a lot of things. Also you don’t really want people drinking more than two martinis (you might think you do. But you don’t). Having said that freeze water in the bottom of 8 small glasses. Pour gin into it and then shave a lemon rind. That is a powerful martini and good for a small group of people you trust.
Do you like the denim with sportcoat and knit tie look? If not, why not?
It’s a delicate situation. Dark rinsed jeans are easier to get away with. Otherwise you really have to thread the needle.
Hmm -- I didn't expect this answer especially with the nod to Sid Mashburn, which seems to really promote this look. Angloitalian is another that seems to believe tailored clothing and denim can coexist very nicely. I don't think it's as delicate as you suggest, if I may say, as you just need to have a well tailored sportcoat with some texture to the fabric and it'll sit pretty well with jeans provided they're tapered nicely and hemmed appropriately.
I hear you. It's more the jeans. Some people get...carried away. I don't want them to be a distraction. Having said that I know a lot of well dressed men who wear white jeans with tailored jackets and look great. I can't quite bring myself to do it But I like it.
FWIW I think you'd pull it off. I really think anyone can unless there's a formal presentation being made at work or something. It stands out for men, for sure, but then again a tailored jacket already does in most places anyway.
But then I'd be breaking my four-year streak of not wearing jeans!
Wow! This seems...impossible.
Sid Mashburn has a few good ideas here and there. I love those loose fitting double monk in suede that he was pushing a few months ago and bought some Grensons that I love. But he’s mostly a Mercedes SUV salesman in a very nice outfit. He’ll say about anything to get you to spend a boatload on something fancy to legitimize an income or image. Some of his stuff is really out there and the stores are full of pretentious goofs. I’d much rather go to Perlis and talk to Jay or that guy with the giant hair at J Press. Both really nice approachable guys. Both fun stores. Way cooler than Sid.
Well I might disagree with you there, Tad. I think the Sid store in Atlanta is one of the great men's stores in America. I've always found their staff to be terrific and stylish and they don't put the pressure on at all. But Sid offers options at many prices in nearly every category, from sport shirts to shoes to tailored clothing. Sid's a wonderful, well-loved man. I stopped him outside Freemans about ten years ago, he didn't know me, and we just started talking about my poor pitiful Vikings. I didn't realize it, but it was the beginning of a beautiful friendship. So a big fan here, and J. Press to for that matter, there's room for all great men's stores!
If J.Press is cooler than Sid Mashburn, then I’m Miles Davis. lol Are you serious? Sounds like you just aren’t the right guy for the product more than a critique of the product. A Mercedes is still a nice car, to use your comparison. There’s no doubt SM’s fabrics, cut, and construction are as good as it gets for the price points, and they’ve been on sale a lot recently, so it’s been even more approachable than usual. I’ve had them hem things for Elle sight unseen, just by providing measurements and they always nail it for me. I don’t know man, I think they’re about as good as it gets in the US. Even Simon Crompton thinks they’re a top US retailer for high end men’s clothing.
I'm not sure we're far apart. I don't doubt their products are of good or better quality, and I don't doubt sid is a nice guy in person. But the online persona is way over the top, and comes off as sales-y. It's off-putting to me. Trying to get me to wear sneakers with a suit is silly. As for the MB being a nice car, it's not what it once was. The company was once an engineering-led company that built cars like a bank vault. It's now a marketing-driven company and their marketing is really off-putting. The cars are obscenely flashy and the ads that keep telling us that they're "the best" repeatedly are annoying. I want the R107/R129 era back.
He's "trying to get you to" do something? Yeah, I haven't seen that. Don't care about cars.
Are you excited about tailored clothing remaining a men's mainstay, even with what seems like a giant cultural shift toward egalitarianism and populism? Can tailored clothes eschew connotations of elitism or will they isolate the wearer to rebel or "failure to adapt" social status?
I’m writing a story about this for a magazine which I will share when it’s published. I think tailoring will always be part of our culture. It may signify power, it may signify a theatrical personality, but the suit has meaning even if that meaning shifts over time.
Any advice for a young dandy?
How much time do you have? Read “How to be a Man” by Glenn O’Brien. You can also read his foreword in my book “Men and Style.”
Working through your book right now (awesome stuff). His foreword was great and will definitely add that other to the list.