Years ago, during bleak winter days, I would go into Bergdorf Goodman and cheer myself with the sight of newly arrived warm-weather clothes. On Fifth Avenue it was frigid and grey but inside was a world of color—linen shirts, bright ties and Kiton blazers that cost more than my Saab. Now we have look-books and everything is always available on our screens. The seasons lack that old romanticized progression.
But it’s still worth taking sartorial stock of where we stand and planning ahead. I’ve written a lot about streamlining ye olde wardrobe—I spent the weekend assessing my own stacks and drawers full of clothes. Once you start clearing out the closet you have more room for the clarity required to know what you need and what you don’t.
You deserve to be the best-dressed man at every wedding you attend. But that takes a little planning and some strategic commitment.
0/ Take an Inventory. Before we get started we need to address tweed overflow. I’m guessing you have a tweed coat. Or two. Or ten. I’m not here to judge (I stopped counting mine at a dozen, incidentally). I am here to say that what’s at the bottom of the heap is probably not going to work its way back into heavy rotation. You’ve moved on to bigger and better things. Nothing wrong with that. I’m giving a few away and putting another out to pasture at our cabin. With these out of the way you can start to look ahead.
1/ Revisit Greatest Hits. Naturally you’ll want to see if anything from last summer has mysteriously shrunk since August (these things happen!). Clothes that don’t fit or are in disrepair are of no use to us. If something needs tailoring then do it, otherwise it’s time to say goodbye.
2/ Go See a Tailor. Are you going to a wedding this summer? Are you heading somewhere where you’ll enjoy a seaside drink that’s red or orange? Then have a suit that meets the moment. Some men try to fake this, but please don’t be the one burning up in a blue blazer and ancient chinos at a friend’s fortieth. It’s time for a good summer suit. I’ve worn the same two for years—Irish linen made by J. Mueser—they’re indestructible and incredibly easy to wear. Make your appointment now or get on eBay early.
3/ Invest and Conquer. Everybody wants good value in their clothes—we should rightly spend on what we wear most often. I’ve written about my approach to the three tiers of dressing to help clarify this process. But sometimes you need something specific that you don’t wear a lot. Say, a pale summer dress shirt or a double-breasted linen blazer. Is it a hassle to buy this when it’s not in your regular arsenal? It is. But is it worth it when you know exactly what you’ll wear to any summer event? Yes, a thousand times yes! And once you fall in love you’ll end up wearing it more than you think.