Escape Artist
Hotels Worth the Retreat
So you want to install yourself in a seaside house for a month? Who wouldn’t. What about an elaborate tour through European best resorts? Good for you. Cover that Rimowa with retro stickers along the way.
But sometimes, maybe most of the time, we aren’t talking about travel on the grand scale. A quick retreat is more realistic, and sometimes more satisfying. A few days at a good hotel can be restorative, a secret escape from normal life. The logistics are easy—you’re not planning transfers, seeking remote markets or researching obscure cafes. The ambition is lower, you’re not trying to do Sweden, just enjoy a weekend away. Also, if you’re staying in a hotel for two nights, you might be open to a little indulgence without the guilt, so step into the spa my good man.
I recently checked into three hotels in the Southeast US that are smart destinations for an enlightened stay.
-Southall Farm & Inn. Franklin, Tennessee.
This hotel is centered around a farm that serves their terrific restaurant, January (worth the visit alone). The property is more than that—there are delightful apiary tours where you visit their hives—I made my bee suit debut—while learning about the fascinating habits of bees (they have over 8 million). There’s also a tremendous spa, with mineral baths, a lively bar and a great country store.
There are cabins—I stayed in a cottage on stilts, with a porch with a wood burning stove. You can go into nearby Franklin, where there’s a great Tom Beckbe store and excellent antique shopping.
It’s less than an hour from Nashville. A good time all around.
-Quercus. Gay, Georgia.
I’ve never been to a hotel quite like Quercus (top photo). Hotel isn’t even the right word. This is a working ranch in the Georgia foothills, less than hour north of Atlanta, with a herd of cattle that grazes peacefully throughout the property. The centerpiece is a biodynamic farm, which sources the ambitious restaurant, Uberto, and their Michelin-starred chef, Ryan Smith.
Fishing can be arranged on the shoals of the Flint River or shooting on The Big Red Oak plantation. But this is really about a peaceful retreat. You stay in one of the four houses, which are truly special—you feel isolated in the best sense.
This is a serious investment (we’re in Aman price territory), but if that isn’t an issue I recommend Quercus in the strongest terms.
-The Lodge at Primland. Meadows of Dan, Virginia.
This impressive hotel, an Auberge property, is set in the Blue Ridge Mountains with spectacular views across the valley. This is a more active equation: there’s golf, fly fishing on the Dan River (an Orvis-endorsed lodge, this is a great place to learn), a ropes course and trails through the 12,000-acre property. In addition to lodge rooms, there are cottages with more privacy, and can be shared, which is perfect for families.
The restaurant has a nice Southern slant and the bar will make a Bourbon believer out of you (if you’re not one already). There’s a charming Barbour lending closet, if conditions turn (I’m very into this idea). And a spa if you’d rather activity-averse.
The closest airport is Greensboro, NC, a 90-minute drive away. If you live in the area, a road trip is in order.
Some other favorite hotels worth a quick visit:
