At Ease, Gentlemen
Dressing Up and Down
Are you a committed sartorialist? Do you run a tailoring house or are you employed by one? Have you photographed men on the street saying, That’s good, now look over my shoulder? Do you DM with Taka from Liverano? Do you have a favorite Crockett & Jones last? Have you attended Pitti, even if it was against your will?
If so, then you are likely surrounded by men who think too much about—and own too many—clothes. This isn’t a judgment—this describes many of my friends. These men try to decide if the tobacco linen suit they’re having made this summer is too similar to last year’s tobacco suit. I’m not averse to these consideration myself.
This is a narrow group, but the internet makes you think it’s normal. More often you live in a place where men don’t hoard Belgian Shoes. And any effort you make that hints of dandyism might raise an eyebrow or extract a snide comment from friend or foe.
That’s why one question that comes up often in our Q&A sessions is from men (usually younger) who live outside Manhattan and London. They want to get into the sartorial game but feel out of place. Maybe they work in a casual environment or don’t want to be the sole clotheshorse in a one pony town.
It’s a worthwhile issue, dealing with self-expression, self-knowledge and a certain amount of vulnerability. You’re coming to terms with who you are, after all, and have to decide if wearing Belgians down main is part of the equation. I feel you.
Here are some open-hearted thoughts about finding your way in the sartorial world:
-Own Your Space. It’s fine to be known as a person who cares about clothes. Don’t bore uninterested people about the topic just like you wouldn’t tell a sports agnostic about your struggling fantasy football team. But dressing, like wine, fly fishing, sushi, or French novels, is something worth caring about slightly too much.
-Deflect With Grace. When I arrived for my first day at Bergdorf Goodman (in ancient times) I was greeted by the creative director, who was arch, British, and wore an impressive simple uniform of T-shirt, jeans and a Rolex. He had interviewed me, but now I was on the other side of the hiring process (I passed the Neiman Marcus mandated drug test!). He looked at my coat and tie and said “You don’t have to dress up now that you’ve got the job. Unless…that’s your thing.” I laughed and said, “Yes, it’s my thing.” That’s a certain context to be sure, but better to embrace your preferences than to hide them.
-Don’t Be Defensive. A good rule in general. If somebody says “What are you dressed up for?” Say, “I was excited for our dinner” or “I was hungover and this is helping me recover.” If they’re more aggressive then don’t point out the fact that you might consider them underdressed, just smile and move on. You can always shift blame and tell them I made you do it.
-One Good Sport Coat. If not the holy grail this is something else Indiana Jones was looking for. An unstructured blue sport coat, probably made in Italy, will get you very far. It can be cotton or twill and worn in. In winter a tonal tweed jacket, again not too structured, is the answer. This photo of Andy Spade, a genius in many things, really captured an easygoing style, which works at a meeting or a party or anywhere else.
