A Return Engagement
All Points North
Last week I was in Maine for twenty-four hours. In a perfect world you’d be in Maine longer than that, but this was unplanned. I was returning from a fishing trip in Canada and couldn’t face reentry into New York so I stole a day in Vacationland. It was perfect.
I didn’t aim too high. I just drove up Route 1 and stopped at some favorite places. I wasn’t looking for anything that revolutionary; I wanted reassurance. Maine is great for that. And when I say it was perfect, well, there were of course things that weren’t ideal (the LL Bean store is under renovation until the end of next summer), but that’s alright.
Maine makes me want to read E.B. White so I listened to the audiobook of his essays read by the incredible Malcolm Hillgartner (who also does a wild interpretation of Hunter Thompson’s letters.) White’s writing about the seasons on his farm is so good you want to be his neighbor (even when he has to shovel snow so his geese have room to roam).
Stopping at Sprague’s in Wiscasset and Big Chicken Barn Books in Ellsworth is a pleasure in itself. But returning reminds me of the other times I’ve been there, who I was with, what I ate, even what we all wore. It’s nice to cultivate these memories.
This always happens in seasonal places, but particularly in summer, when the grooves are different than in other seasons. They’re formed with we’re young and free from school, by the sea, on boats, at camp, on the lake. You remember where you’ve been in the summer, actual places, of course, but also artful settings. That’s why people watch Jaws every July (or Eric Rohmer, if you’re of a different temperament). The light in Fairfield Porter’s paintings perfectly captures summer, which is one reason they’re so well-loved.
These sensory memories remain strong. I only drink Leinenkugel’s at our cabin in Wisconsin—it’s only natural that it reminds me of that place (you can’t argue with nostalgic beer). And I like to see places that other people have loved year after year, whether it’s a clam shack or a beachside bar, and I don’t argue with their nostalgic beer.
So much of travel these days is a relentless search for some place of the moment and we exhaust ourselves trying to be in the exact right situation. Sometimes that’s worth it; often it’s not. In Maine I was just happy to enjoy myself and not ruthlessly program every hour (though I still discovered a truly great antiques store). The cool hotel wasn’t open for the season yet, so I stayed in a simple place next door (then I realized I’d actually been there before). I arrived at my bungalow in the darkness and woke up to a view of the sea below. The day was all in front of me and there was nothing left to want.
IN OTHER NEWS:
-I’m now on AmiGo, the excellent travel app. I’ve shared guides to Tokyo and Paris, and dozens of other favorite places to stay, eat and visit. There’s a photo grid, like Instagram, along with maps and advice. It’s a great place to research cities and discover new places. There’s a waitlist to sign up, but you can dive right in with code: CONTENDER. I’m on there regularly so you can continue to follow along. I’ve included a lot of hotels that I think can become your easygoing favorites, from Idaho to Belize. Oh and Maine’s in there too.
-There was a funny story in the Washington Post about fly fishing style migrating off the water and onto the fashion conscious. I offer a few thoughts in the piece. You can read it here.
-I don’t write about beauty products (I guess that’s what we call that category). The only things I’m devoted to are Hermès Orange Verte and Corpus natural Santalum deodorant and Aesop toner. But I wanted to recommend Wonder Valley sandalwood yuzu shampoo and conditioner. This terrific brand is run by my friend Alison Carroll and her husband Jay. Everything they do has the right touch and I’m so happy for their success (you can find their line in Bigelow if you’re in New York, but it’s everywhere).
-I’m off to France to write a story about a seaside town but also try some places in the countryside that are new to me. Very excited about this trip and look forward to sharing some great places with you.
Have a great weekend!
David
Good piece, David. Returning and returning. A lot of what life is about.
David, thank you so much for introducing me to Winslow Homer and Fairfield Porter via your writing lately! Sublime stuff!